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john coveney

I haved owned this vechile since 2012 which has done 60,000 genuine miles and has been looked after and serviced meticulously.

Recently it has developed a Intermittent Problem?... Read more

anglebox

I've heard of this problem on turbocharged MR2s. Is yours turbo or N/A?

john coveney

No not turbo charged.

elekie&a/c doctor

Check the flexi rubber air intake tube.These can split ,but it is not obvious unless you pull it about with your hands.Also does this model have the variable intake manifold flaps.?Not unknown for these to come loose.

john coveney

Thanks elekie&a/c doctor. No does not have variable intake manifold flaps. But will press ahead with flexi rubber air intake tube and see. Will keep you posted.

serge

I am about to become a classic car owner, but I am not really a spanner man. Does anyone know of any basic part time or weekend courses for people like me, where I could learn more about basic maintenance, fault diagnosis and simple engine work (i.e. dealing with misfires, changing spark plugs and things at that level)? Read more

edlithgow

I think I had a 2nd hand copy of that AA book in the 70's and I'd agree its a good introduction and reference.

Re "Classic ownership isn't bangernomics" perhaps bangernomics (IF that concept is still viable) would be a better and lower-risk place to start. ...

RaineMan

I would suggest starting with something basic like an Oxbridge or Mk II Ford Consul and seeing how you get on. If all goes well for a couple of years consider a Jaguar - it is not a starter classic!

anglebox

The British Motor Museum does a course for 'classic virgins' which includes a 'hands on' element.

www.britishmotormuseum.co.uk/events/classic-virgin...y

Contour Autocraft also run a short course:

www.contouracademy.com/academy-vehicle-restoration...l

As mentioned above, the AA book of the car is a handy reference guide - although you'll probably need a Haynes manual if you want to get more in depth.

After a few months of regular fettling, even a novice will be able to perform basic servicing work - changing oil, spark plugs, coolant etc and progressing on to brakes.

But the state of the body is crucial. If the panels are full of rust and you don't own a welder (or can't weld) you're going to have a very steep learning curve ahead of you.

Parts for Jaguars are also very expensive. If you can, start with something very simple like a Morris Minor, a Mini or an MGB.

No car is a doddle to work on and they all have their issues (rear spring hangers especially for the Moggy) BUT parts are much more affordable and all have great support from owners' clubs.

Good luck - and enjoy the journey.

Leo_JV

Hi,

Can you help me about the code of the ford fiesta radio.... Read more

Alexandru Gabriel Nemtoiu

Hi please help me with a code for my ford fiesta 2003.radio code is M03 1208

jason King

Hi all my name is jason I have recently become a proud owner of an 04 plate focus st .
Mint condition for its age , but here is my problem lol
Or paranoia.
It cost me £600 it runs like a dream and is rapid but there is my problem,
Why so cheap , ihavnt had it checked out yet only breezed over by a mechanic as I had to have new bulbs and the back wiper didn't work lol .
I have never had a car with so much power but I just want to make sure it doesn't have me off the road. When I flow it it wants to pull me from side to side and also the swearing it a little tight but I'm only used to old crap focuses that drive like a bout .
Should I be worried and should I get the car checked over
I don't have a lot of spare cash and really want to keep it for ages .
If anyone can advise many thanks
Jason Read more

SLO76

You talking about when you accelerate hard from very low speed or a standstill? If so then it's likely dumping 170bhp through the front wheels is just causing a spot of torque steer but if you're talking about it veering when you accelerate or slow down when travelling at say 30mph for example then it could be worn trackrod ends.

The MK I Focus was the best small family hatch of its era by a long way and good survivors will be worth money one day but it's currently going through bangerdom where it's next to worthless except for the RS.

If it's genuinely nice then keep it that way and you should sell for no loss or even a profit after running it a year or two. A tatty one will never become valuable so if there's a lot of rot then just enjoy it while it lasts.

The ST170 wasn't the best example and wasn't that well received due to its surprisingly small performance gain over the normal 2.0 Zetec. In fact the 1.8 TDCi was quicker point to point due to its vastly higher torque. So don't expect it to rocket in value any time soon like some fast Fords. It was actually a bit of a weak link in the range.

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