Morris Minor (1948 – 1971) Review

Morris Minor (1948 – 1971) At A Glance

There's a Minor to suit all budgets, good to drive, brilliant parts and specialist back-up, A-series powered ones are easily tuned to stay up with modern traffic, classic flatulent exhaust note

If you like your classics rare, you might want to look elsewhere

Ask Honest John

How do I feet spacers for Morris Minor alloys wheels?

"Morris Minor specialists sell 5.5J alloy wheels for the Morris Minor 1000. They require (sold with the wheels) 5mm spacers. Do these just slot on to the studs before fitting the wheel and are there any likely problems with this?"

If you're using spacers, then you'll also need extended wheel studs. Others, yes, they do slot straight onto the hub and are designed to keep the wider tyre away from the suspension components.

Answered by Craig Cheetham

How can I give my modified Morris Minor better ground clearance?

"I have a Morris Minor fitted with an 1800cc Morris Marina engine and running gear. The heavier engine and reduced ground clearance causes the sump to ground out over deep potholes. I have already put 40 grade oil in shocks but there's not much improvement. I have ordered from ESM a telescopic conversion kit which is designed for standard Morris Minor, not one fitted with a lot heavier engine. My idea is to fit this kit and change to stiffer shocks. What do you suggest?"

One option may be to fit a modified sump to give additional ground clearance, but you would need to ensure there is enough capacity to hold the required amount of oil. Stiffer shock absorbers may help a little but you would need to match this to stiffer springs, as these will have a greater impact on the amount of suspension travel. We would suggest going back to ESM and explaining your requirements as they will likely be able to offer advice and the right components to counter the lack of ground clearance.

Answered by David Ross

Are classic cars exempt from the London Congestion Charge?

"I'm looking to buy a 1960 Morris Minor. I live in Central London. I understand that cars over 40 years old are exempt from the ULEZ, however, I can't find any information on whether or not I'd have to pay the congestion charge. Do you know?"

Hi Andy, I don't believe there's an exemption for historic vehicles in regards to the Congestion Charge, though there is for the ULEZ - like you say. You can see all the exemptions and discounts here: https://tfl.gov.uk/modes/driving/congestion-charge/discounts-and-exemptions

Answered by Georgia Petrie

Should we scrap an old car that hasn't moved for 25 years?

"I was wondering if you had any ideas to help with my dad's car. He owns a Morris Minor Traveller that has not been used for about 25 years. It is parked on the drive but has been gradually rotting away and there is no possibility of moving it on its own wheels, and will probably not be able to be towed on to a trailer without falling apart, though I don't think it would even move like that. He's now been taken into hospital and if he is to move back home it will have to be moved in order for some work to be done to facilitate this. Any ideas about how we can remove it would be gratefully received. "

Don't scrap it. This car will be worth something to someone somewhere. Get in contact with the Morris Minor Owners' Club (https://www.mmoc.org.uk/) as they might be able to help.

Answered by Keith Moody

More Questions

Model History

• January 0001: 01-10-1948 Morris Minor MM launched at the Earls Court Motor Show
• January 0001: 01-09-1950 Morris Minor MM launched in four-door and Tourer forms
• January 0001: 01-10-1952 BMC A-Series Minor Series II launched
• January 0001: 01-10-1952 Traveller launched
• January 0001: 01-04-1953 Van and pick-up versions launched
• January 0001: 01-10-1954 Revised with new grille and dashboard
• January 0001: 01-09-1956 Morris Minor 1000 launched, now with 948cc A-Series engine
• January 0001: 01-02-1961 Morris Minor 1,000,000 special edition launched to celebrated the production landmark
• January 0001: 01-09-1962 Morris Minor 1000 upgraded to 1098cc
• January 0001: 18-06-1969 The final Morris Minor Convertible/Tourer manufactured
• January 0001: 01-11-1970 The final Morris Minor 1000 saloon built
• January 0001: 01-04-1971 The final Traveller and commercial versions built

Morris Minor (1948 – 1971) Buying Guide

Bodywork

• If the outer panels are a bit ropey, don’t panic – new panels are readily available, although the cost can soon add up.
• If it looks tatty on the outside, there’s a good chance that the monocoque to which the panels are bolted will need extensive (and expensive) repairs.
• Woodwork on the Traveller is structural so make sure there are not discoloured areas. New wood will cost about £3000.
• Check the Minor’s Achilles’ heel – its rear spring hangers. These can take a day (each side) to repair.
• Rust can take hold in the rear chassis extension and front chassis legs (which run either side of the engine).
• Other common rot spots include the sills and the doors, especially along the bottom edges.
• Good-quality repair panels for doors are available (vans, pick-ups and four-door saloons used the same doors, too).
• Crucial pressings like the floorpans and the crossmember (which braces the whole shell) are common rot spots.
• To identify a genuine Tourer, check the plate on the offside bulkhead onto which the body number is stamped. The second letter of a 1952-1958 Tourer's chassis number will be C, while later cars used an MAT prefix. Any car built after June 1969 will be a conversion.

Engine & Gearbox

• Sidevalve engine shares many components with the Morris Eight Series E.
• Exhaust valves burn out as a result of incorrect tappet adjustment.
• Timing settings can be thrown out because of the distributor not being lubricated often enough.
• Post-1956 cars got the 948cc A-series unit, which is hard-wearing and reliable.
• Look for exhaust smoke under power, noisy tappets and reduced performance (it’s not great to begin with).
• Listen for big-end knocks when the engine is started, timing chain rattle and an oil light that's slow to go out.
• Final and most usable version of the A-series is the 1098cc unit.
• You can upgrade the A-series by fitting an unleaded-ready head and duplex timing chain conversion.
• Gearboxes are a weak spot – synchromesh gives up easily (no Minor had it on first gear).
• Once the teeth are chipped the ‘’box will become noisy and start jumping out of gear.
• If the rear axle is noisy when you lift off at speed, the differential is worn.

Running Gear

• Trunnions and swivel pins at the front wear out unless they're greased at least every 3000 miles or three months.
• Pressed-steel wheels were fitted to all Minors as standard, and they don't give any problems.
• The brake master cylinder lives under the driver's footwell and gets attacked by all the debris thrown up from the road.

Electrics and trim

• Good news: just about everything available for the interior of a Minor, and none of it is very expensive.
• Switchgear and instrumentation is also available, except for the Bakelite switches used on early cars (although plastic replacements can be bought).
• Electrical issues are generally caused by previous bodges or old/cracked wires. New looms are available and easy to fit.

Can I run it on unleaded?

• No. An additive is essential, or you can fit an unleaded head.

Morris Minor 1000

Morris Minor Series II

Morris Minor Series MM