Volkswagen Type 2 Camper (bay window) (1968 – 1979) Review

Volkswagen Type 2 Camper (bay window) (1968 – 1979) At A Glance

Cool, usable and highly versatile

Rust is an issue, restoration is not straightforward

Ask Honest John

What is my 1971 Volkswagen Kombi worth?

"I'm selling my 1971 Volkswagen Kombi. Completely restored in 2019 it has the original 1600cc engine with 48,000miles on the clock. What sort of price could I expect?"

The best way to value a vehicle such as this is to look for comparable examples already for sale, and make a judgement based on this. A quick look online shows 1971 examples for sale for anything between £5000 and £25,000, so we would suggest looking at what else is on the market and pitching your Kombi selling price appropriately.

Answered by David Ross

I keep getting MoT reminders for my historic car - is the MoT now optional?

"My Volkswagen T2 has become an historic vehicle and is registered as such on the V5C. Because I was/am registered for MoT reminders from DVLA I have been sent a reminder for the MoT, due this month. It is my understanding that as this vehicle complies with the requirement of 'no substantial alterations' that the MoT is now optional at that if no MoT is carried out it will be sufficient to declare the vehicle 'compliant' when the annual vehicle tax (now free of charge) is due. Is this correct? "

That is correct. Next time you tax the vehicle, you'll be asked to confirm that it is MoT exempt. Remember, though, that your insurance is only valid if your vehicle is kept in a roadworthy condition. Having an MoT test is a good way of doing that. Otherwise, the onus will be on you to prove the vehicle was roadworthy should you need to make a claim.

Answered by Keith Moody

Are there any rear-engine diesel cars?

"I'm doing research for a book and am wondering if there's ever been any diesel cars manufactured with the engine in the rear and the trunk in the front? If not, is there a reason why this isn't a viable design?"

Rear-engined diesel cars? Volkswagen's Type 2 (T3) has a rear-mounted engine and diesel was an option. And there's a Beetle prototype that still exists in a museum, but rear-engined diesels never really took off. There are probably several reasons for this, with the biggest one being weight - old diesel engines weigh considerably more than their petrol counterparts, which would have caused some significant handling issues. A friend who is passionate about oil burners suggested that you might be able to find some examples of rear-engined diesel microcars from the 1970s and 1980s if you look hard enough. There are a couple of examples of modern-rear engined diesels, including the Smart ForTwo.

Answered by Keith Moody

Where can my son sell his 1975 Volkswagen camper van?

"My son is thinking of selling his much loved 1975 Volkswagen Camper van. It’s taxed and MoT’d until the middle of next year. What would be the best way for him to sell it? And if he gets a buyer, what is the safest way for him to proceed with the sale?"

This is what’s called a Volkswagen Type 2 (the ‘Type 1’ was the Volkswagen Beetle). But it will be a second generation ‘Bay Window’ Type 2, which isn't quite as desirable as an original ‘split window’ model that ran from 1949 to 1967. While in Europe we got ‘T3’ and ‘T4’ models, the T2 ‘Bay’ continued in production in Brazil, latterly with a 1.4-litre straight four watercooled engine, and goes out of production at the end of this year. The club is the Volkswagen Type 2 Owners Club (www.vwt2oc.co/wp) where you may find a buyer, r try a classic auction: www.historics.co.uk. They will deal with the administration of the sale.

Answered by Honest John

More Questions

Volkswagen Type 2 Camper (bay window) (1968 – 1979) Buying Guide

Good

• Cool
• Usable
• Highly versatile
• Massive selection available with prices to suit almost all budgets

Bad

• Rust is an issue
• Restoration is not straightforward and costly
• Underpowered unless tuned
• Wobbly road manners unless upgraded

Watch

• On campers, check the quality of split charging systems or leisure batteries, and also any aftermarket add-ons that have undoubtedly been fitted along the way.
• As for interiors - repro and custom trim is the best way of getting immaculate insides, as originals are now near-unobtainium. Original seats are rare, but re-trimming is straightforward.
• Servicing is easy and straightforward - engine removal is relatively simple for larger jobs.
• Gearboxes cause little problems at all.
• Check the engine for signs of wear - blue smoke is a giveaway for worn rings or bores. Rebuilding is easy and cheap, and secondhand engines are plentiful. You can swap engines between models simply.
• Pre-1960 Type 2s with the 1192cc engine brake that rule - the earliest parts are harder to find and much more expensive.
• Check for signs of overheating - good flat-fours can run all day without getting hot.
• Pulling on the fan belt pulley to check for crankshaft float - if there's visual movement, the main bearings are shot and you need a rebuild.
• Make sure the oil has been changed every 3000 miles.
• Check for rusty heat exchanger - you know because the heater won't be working and the interior smells of exhaust fumes.
• Check the steering for free play, but if the bearing needs looking at, it's easily adjustable.
• If it's the kingpin, repair kits are available, complete with all bushes, bearings, shims and seals.
• If it's lowered, make sure it's been done properly - if the beam axle has been cut, check the quality of the weld is good, without stress or cracks etc.
• Check drum brakes aren't suffering from leaking wheel cylinders - easy to fix, but not always cheap.
• Rusty panels - new ones are all available off the shelf.
• The main places to check for rust are the sills, wheelarches, door bottoms and front valance.
• Closely check the floorpan, most notably, at the front.
• Chassis rails are also worrisome, which is a problem as they are tought to repair properly.
• Other rust spots: inner wheelarches, battery tray, and the leading edge of the roof.
• Check the cotton-covered rubber hose for sign of perishing - it's a complex and sometimes hot run from the petrol above the rear axle to the engine - this should be changed regularly.
• Pre-1966 six-volt electrics particularly susceptible to poor connections and bad earths - most will have been upgraded to 12-volt systems.

Running Volkswagen Type 2 Camper (bay window) (1968 – 1979)

• Custom And Commercial: +44 (0)1372 452297, www.customandcommercial.com
• FBIVW (sales): +44 (0)1792 585544, www.fbivw.com
• J&S Upholstery: +44 (0)1302 789112, www.vwinteriors.com
• Karmann Konnection: +44 (0)1702 60155, www.karmannkonnection.com
• Kombi Klassics: +44 (0)1929 553336, www.kombiklassics.co.uk
• Schofield & Sons: +44 (0)1457 854267, www.ahschofield.co.uk
• Split Screen Van Club: +44 (0)1274 596564 (membership enquiries)
• Status VW: +44 (0)1524 272915, www.status-vw.co.uk
• VW Heritage: +44 (0)1273 495800, www.vwheritage.com

Volkswagen Camper