Jaguar XJ6 and XJ12 (XJ40) (1986 – 1994) Review

Jaguar XJ6 and XJ12 (XJ40) (1986 – 1994) At A Glance

Wafty, effortless and even poorly-maintained examples feel a million dollars to drive.

Rust, suspension problems, electrics on early cars, and general fragility. An all-time classic, then.

Ask Honest John

Jaguar XJ6 rear doors won't lock

"I have a 2006 Jaguar XJ6. The rear door locks have started locking only intermittently - mostly failing to lock, but occasionally locking. Is there anything you can suggest that I do or try before taking the new replacement lock route? "

There may be a rubber access grommet in the lock face of the door. Get a can of WD40, pop the grommet and squirt the lock servo to disperse any moisture that might be causing it to stick. No rubber grommet, use the extended nozzle inserted between the outer window glass and the window seal to squirt the WD40 down onto the lock servo.

Answered by Honest John

Can I change the wheels on my Jaguar XJ40 to Kent alloys?

"I own a 1990 Jaguar XJ40 and want to replace the teardrop alloys with the older Kent alloys. I'm told they may not fit because of the size difference on the inside rim touching the XJ40 brake calipers. If so, is it possible to change the brake calipers for those from an XJ6 series 2 or 3?"

To the best of my knowledge, Kent alloys will only fit on the rear of an XJ40 but not the front because, as you say, they foul the brake callipers. One option is to look at spacers, but that's not ideal. I'd head on over to www.xj40.com and post on the wheels and tyres boards to see if you can find someone who has successfully made this conversion work.

Answered by Keith Moody

Should I buy a high mileage Jaguar XF or XJ6?

"I'm interested in buying a Jaguar XF or an XJ6 2.7 diesel. I've seen plenty of 2008 to 2010 models that have done in excess of 100,000 with most saying 'engine fault'. Are these cars best avoided or are they fixable? I'll be doing in excess of 15,000 miles per year and fully aware of how to look after DPFs."

Best avoided. Too much potential expense: two turbos; two DPFs; timing belt, tensioner and waterpump. That lot could set you back £6k +.

Answered by Administrator

More Questions

Jaguar XJ6 and XJ12 (XJ40) (1986 – 1994) Buying Guide

Good

• Less likely to have build faults than previous Jaguars.
• 16' 4" long by 6' 7" wide and around 1,750kg.
• Quiet and quick, nice ambience inside a Sovereign.
• Non-cat 3.6 has 221 bhp. Catted 3.2 AJ6 has 200 bhp. Pre-cat 4.0 has 235 bhp, sinking to 205 bhp with cat. 4.0 XJR has 248 bhp. Catalysed 5.3 V12 has 264 bhp. All should take unleaded.
• Demand exceeded supply when new, so in 1986 and 1987 these cars sold for silly premiums.
• Very Low 2 out of 9 point death rate from accidents in this model.

Bad

• Styling the most boring of any XJ.
• Lack of steering 'feel'.
• Too low for some.
• Not as much rear legroom as length implies.
• 165 bhp 2.9 litre version best avoided unless being virtually given away.

Watch

• Allow for the fact that by 2011 these cars were at least 25 years old.
• Must have leather seats (or at least leather seat facings) - a £750 trimming job.
• Aircon more desirable than sunroof.Make sure aircon blows cold. Good news if has been recharged with CFC-free 134A refrigerant instead of old R12 and the seals aren't leaking.
• Will rust - the first place is around number plate lights in the boot lid, but if there's rust in the wings, sills and inside the boot, walk away.
• Light reflectors also let in water and rust.
• Listen for timing chain rattle - a sign of age and insufficiently frequent oil changes.
• The coolant needs to have been changed every two years without fail or the block will sludge up at the back, overheat, blow its head gasket and possibly warp its cylinder head.
• If the brake fluid isn't changed every two years, the ABS pump could rust up inside, so make sure the ABS light goes on when you switch on and goes off again a few seconds after start-up.
• Check all electrics.
• Check for uneven tyre wear signifying suspension or steering damage. If tyres are worn, they're costly to replace.
• Listen for clonking from the rear axle on gearchanges, which should be smooth.
• Manuals are rare and early ones had a clutch problem, but all should have been sorted by now.
• If fitted with self-levelling suspension, make sure it self-levels.
• Try and feel the discs for scoring, lipping and wear. Brake callipers can seize and are expensive, so be very suspicious of uneven braking on test drive.

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