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Honest John Classics Reviews Volkswagen

Volkswagen T1 (1949 – 1968) Review

Item: Volkswagen T1 (1949 – 1968) Review 2026
Author: David Ross

Volkswagen Beetle Cabriolet

£29,950

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Volkswagen T1 (1949 – 1968) At A Glance

Roomy, simple, elegant, and a lifestyle choice

Slow and wobbly without modifications

Volkswagen started work on its first commercial vehicle, and launched it three years later. It was officially designated as the Type 2, but is also known as the T1. Either way, it was a shape which launched a million campers - and there were several different body variations to choose from.

The most popular and numerous were the Kombi (Kombinationskraftwagen – a windowed combination of passenger and cargo vehicle, usually referred to as a ‘bus’) and the Camper. Westfalia created most of the latter. These early vans were nicknamed ‘Split’ or ‘Splittie’ due to their two-piece windscreen, and VW updated the mechanical side of the vehicles constantly while leaving their looks mostly untouched until 1968.

Model History

January 1947: Type 2 first thoughts
January 1949: Type 2 launched
January 1950: Range extended
January 1951: The legendary Samba is added to the line-up
January 1952: Pick-up arrives.
January 1954: Type 2 gets more power
January 1958: Double-cab goes on sale
January 1959: More power and a better gearbox
January 1961: A 'big' year for the Type 2
January 1963: The 1.5-litre option added to the range
January 1966: Electrical system gets a much-needed upgrade
January 1967: Split-screen model replaced by the Bay window version

January 1947

Type 2 first thoughts

Ben Pon came up with Transporter design sketches, inspired by forward control Beetle-based trucks at Volkswagen’s Wolfsburg factory.

January 1949

Type 2 launched

Type 2 shown, powered by the 1131cc flat-four developing 25bhp.

January 1950

Range extended

Type 2 panel van goes on sale, quickly followed by the Kombi.

January 1951

The legendary Samba is added to the line-up

The Type 2 Volkswagen Samba bus is launched, but is otherwise known as the Microbus DeLuxe.

January 1952

Pick-up arrives.

January 1954

Type 2 gets more power

Engine capacity increased to 1192cc; power rises to 30bhp. Right-hand-drive vans now offered in the UK.

January 1958

Double-cab goes on sale

January 1959

More power and a better gearbox

Power increased to 34bhp and all-synchromesh gearbox fitted, improving the driving experience.

January 1961

A 'big' year for the Type 2

High-roof panel van added to the range, and the millionth Transporter leaves the factory.

January 1963

The 1.5-litre option added to the range

The 1497cc power unit now available at extra cost: it developed 42bhp, increasing to 44bhp in 1965.

January 1966

Electrical system gets a much-needed upgrade

Heavy Type 2 users welcome the arrival of 12-volt electrics to replace the original six-volt system.

January 1967

Split-screen model replaced by the Bay window version

All-new styling for the Type 2, with the split-screen with single-piece ‘bay window’. Much-needed 1584cc flat-four engine now fitted, now developing 47bhp.

Volkswagen T1 (1949 – 1968) Buying Guide

Good

Cool
Usable
Highly versatile
Massive selection available with prices to suit almost all budgets

Bad

Rust is an issue
Restoration is not straightforward and costly
Underpowered unless tuned
Wobbly road manners unless upgraded

Watch

On campers, check the quality of split charging systems or leisure batteries, and also any aftermarket add-ons that have undoubtedly been fitted along the way.
As for interiors - repro and custom trim is the best way of getting immaculate insides, as originals are now near-unobtainium. Original seats are rare, but re-trimming is straightforward.
Servicing is easy and straightforward - engine removal is relatively simple for larger jobs.
Gearboxes cause little problems at all.
Check the engine for signs of wear - blue smoke is a giveaway for worn rings or bores. Rebuilding is easy and cheap, and secondhand engines are plentiful. You can swap engines between models simply.
Pre-1960 Type 2s with the 1192cc engine brake that rule - the earliest parts are harder to find and much more expensive.
Check for signs of overheating - good flat-fours can run all day without getting hot.
Pulling on the fan belt pulley to check for crankshaft float - if there's visual movement, the main bearings are shot and you need a rebuild.
Make sure the oil has been changed every 3000 miles.
Check for rusty heat exchanger - you know because the heater won't be working and the interior smells of exhaust fumes.
Check the steering for free play, but if the bearing needs looking at, it's easily adjustable.
If it's the kingpin, repair kits are available, complete with all bushes, bearings, shims and seals.
If it's lowered, make sure it's been done properly - if the beam axle has been cut, check the quality of the weld is good, without stress or cracks etc.
Check drum brakes aren't suffering from leaking wheel cylinders - easy to fix, but not always cheap.
Rusty panels - new ones are all available off the shelf.
The main places to check for rust are the sills, wheelarches, door bottoms and front valance.
Closely check the floorpan, most notably, at the front.
Chassis rails are also worrisome, which is a problem as they are tought to repair properly.
Other rust spots: inner wheelarches, battery tray, and the leading edge of the roof.
Check the cotton-covered rubber hose for sign of perishing - it's a complex and sometimes hot run from the petrol above the rear axle to the engine - this should be changed regularly.
Pre-1966 six-volt electrics particularly susceptible to poor connections and bad earths - most will have been upgraded to 12-volt systems.