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Hillman Imp (1963 - 1976)
Last updated 21 August 2014
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Buying Guide
Bodywork
- Imp’s were never rustproofed so although the shell is strong it can be attacked by rust.
- Check the leading edge of the bonnet - once rust takes hold here the panel will be difficult to repair.
- Inspect the door bottoms because drainage holes get blocked and allow the door to fill up with water.
- Rear wheelarches are prone to rot, as are the arches at the front.
- Carefully inspect the sills – the low value of the cars over recent years means plates may have been fitted as full sill repair was uneconomical.
- Like many cars of this era, the spare wheel well can fill up with water and rot out.
- No new panels are currently available so you’ll have to mend and make do.
- Beware rot around the suspension mount as repairs are involved and expensive.
- Make sure you inspect the floorpan from underneath as these can get very weak in places.
- Rear spring suspension mounts can rot, especially the cups that hold the springs.
- Box-section swing axles are prone to corroding badly, weakening the suspension.
Engine & Gearbox
- All-aluminium, make sure it’s been maintained with the right mix of antifreeze and water.
- As it weakens, the alloy will break up and bits of it will float into the radiator, reducing its efficiency.
- Check the head gasket hasn’t blown by inspecting the radiator cap for a mayonnaise-like substance.
- If the radiator hasn’t been doing its job properly, the cylinder head can warp and so can the block.
- If the engine ‘pinks’ on the test drive check that the ignition timing is correctly set.
- Fire it up from cold and check for blue exhaust smoke, which suggest worn valve seals.
- If an engine does need to be completely rebuild, budget around £1000.
- Check the temperature gauge – the needle should be between one third and halfway.
- Water pump’s need replacing every 25,000 miles but also check the condition of the cooling hoses.
- Oil leaks are often caused by worn seals.
- Clunky gear changes on the four-speed manual ’box can be caused by worn bushes at the base of the stick.
- Synchromesh was fitted to all four forward ratios, but is notoriously weak on first and second gear.
- Clutch pedal should be light – if it isn’t the salve cylinder could be faulty.
Steering, Suspension & Brakes
- The rack-and-pinion steering should be light – if it isn’t the kingpins and their bushes could be worn.
- To check, jack up each front corner, hold the top and bottom of the wheel and rock it to check for play.
- Drum brakes can bind so try to push the car (in neutral) on a level service.
- Sometimes wheel cylinders don’t return properly – this can be caused by a blocked ventilation hole in the master cylinder.
Trim and electrics
- Interior trim can be hard to find, but the club does have some items available.
- Early seats can be patched up, but Mk3 (post-1968) are moulded and not easy to repair.
- Exterior trim is hard to find so if it’s missing be prepared to scour the autojumbles.
- Make sure all the instruments and switchgear work.
Can I run it on unleaded?
- An additive or hardened valve seats is recommended by most owners.