Mini Mk2-Mk5 (1967 – 1992) Review

Mini Mk2-Mk5 (1967 – 1992) At A Glance

4/5

+A great city car, brilliant classic, and huge fun despite limited performance

-Rust, and young cars being passed off as older ones - and badly customised, repaired or repainted examples.

Such was the rightness of the original Mini, that once it had reached Mk3 form, there really wasn't much left to improve - and so, between the late 1960s and early '90s, very little materially changed, other than trim and equipment.

The short-lived Mk2 (1967-69) had received a new grille and the option of a 998cc engine, while the Mk3 (1969-1976) hid the door hinges and replaced the sliding windows with wind-up ones. The old Austin and Morris badges were dropped with the formation of British Leyland in 1968, with the Mini now a marque in its own right. Hydrolastic suspension – more expensive to fit – was dropped in favour of the original rubber-cone type.

Changes for the Mk4 (1976-1984) were more subtle, with alterations to the interior and subframe. The Mk5 took over from 1985-92, with 12in wheels and front disc brakes.

Ask Honest John

Should I get a classic car inspected before buying?

"I am thinking about buying a classic Mini Cooper. The car is 1998 R reg, with 49000 miles. All the history checks out on gov.uk, there's no corrosion and the car appears in good order. I am intending on having an AA inspection carried out before I think about submitting an offer. The car is advertised at £7995. Do you think this is the correct price bracket for this car, given its age, condition etc?"
A pre-sale inspection check is a good idea - but don't use the AA. Get the car to a reputable Mini specialist and you'll have a far better idea about its overall condition and therefore value.
Answered by Keith Moody

I'm looking for a classic car to run around the city - what's a good buy?

"I'm looking for a classic car to run around the city - reliable, easy to park, won't rust away at the roadside and able to stand up to lots of stopping and starting. Probably automatic. What do you suggest?"
You've got plenty of choices here - but there are a few factors to take into consideration. How much have you got to spend? What kind of era are you looking for? And how worried are you about it getting dinged and scratched? For cheap and cheerful you could do a Renault 5, late-model Minis were available with a three-speed auto, or if you're feeling flush a Fiat 500. Fancy standing out a bit? Then a Datsun Cherry could be worth a look. If you're not too tall, then consider something like a Nissan Figaro (for modern cons and a sunshine lid) or a Suzuki Whizzkid.
Answered by Keith Moody

I've seen lots of Japanese import classic Mini - does buying one make financial sense?

"I'm looking at buying a classic Mini. I have seen lots of Japanese imports advertised. Do these cars make financial sense to buy? What are the pros and cons of buying one of these cars? Unsure what to look for with this. I'm an AA member and would have them inspect the car, but just unsure as to whether buying one is the sensible option."
Generally, the upkeep of a classic Mini is likely to be better in Japan because the Shaken test regime is much tougher than the UK MoT test regime. The car was originally made in the UK, exported to RHD Japan, then brought back to the UK. No reason not to consider one. Though if you are looking at Mini in the £30,000 + bracket, probably better to go for a numbers matching UK car with a traceable past. There are signs that classic Mini prices have peaked.
Answered by Honest John

Where can our neighbour sell her 1969 Mini Studio?

"Our neighbour, an elderly lady, has now given up driving and she has asked me to find a fair price for her 1969 998cc Mini Studio 2 owned since new. It has approximately 60,000 miles on the clock and is taxed and MoT’d. She wishes to sell it and is not sure of its value. It has been regularly serviced and is in good condition."
It's covered here: www.classics.honestjohn.co.uk/reviews/mini/mk2-mk5/?section=buying All depends on its true condition. Completely rot free and it could be worth £2000 - £3000, maybe even more than that. But if there is rust in the body and subframes, then more like £1000. Try entering it in a classic auction such as www.historics.co.uk or www.barons-auctions.com
Answered by Honest John
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